Why not explore the famous Burgundy wine route differently? Far from traffic jams and rushed tastings, why not experience it from the deck of a houseboat, gently gliding along the Canal Latéral à la Loire?
One week of navigation, 100 kilometers of pure pleasure, stopovers in charming villages, and glasses filled with Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, or Coteaux du Giennois. Depart from Plagny for an unforgettable experience!
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One-week itinerary from Plagny
Day 1: Plagny → Getting to know the boat and relaxing
Your adventure begins at the port of Plagny, located just outside Nevers and only a few hours from the famous Burgundian town of Beaune, the historic heart of the vineyard region. This is where you’ll take charge of your houseboat rental in Burgundy, ready for a week of exploration along the water and through landscapes of vines and terroir.
What to do along the way:
- Take time to settle in on board and get familiar with the boat's controls (training is provided by the rental company). Once you’ve got the basics down, the cruise can begin.
- Head to Nevers for groceries for your first meals on board, picking up some local specialties: Morvan ham, rustic bread, or regional cheese—perfect to start your adventure with a taste of Burgundy. My little favourite: start your wine route with a first bottle of Coteaux Charitois grands crus, bought from a wine shop in Nevers, which often gets excellent online reviews.
- Don’t miss a stroll through the historic center of Nevers, with its cathedral, old town streets, and its iconic faience pottery, before spending your first of many peaceful nights on board.
Day 2: Plagny → La Charité-sur-Loire (35 km – 5 h – 6 locks)
From Plagny, set off towards La Charité-sur-Loire, a medieval gem listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can get there by bike or taxi. After a full day of visiting vineyards and more, it will be time to continue the route toward Sancerre.
What to do along the way:
- Visit the Basilica of Sainte-Croix, an 11th-century Romanesque masterpiece.
- Stroll through antique bookstores, galleries, and local craft shops.
- And of course, don’t miss your first proper wine tasting in a cellar! At Au Vin, a well-known local wine shop, you’ll discover a wide selection of Coteaux Charitois wines produced by small, passionate winemakers. It might just be your first real wine-related highlight of the trip.
Day 3: La Charité-sur-Loire → Sancerre (22 km – 4 h – 4 locks)
A full day to explore Sancerre, perched on its hilltop amidst vineyards, and ranked among the “most beautiful villages in France.”
What to do there:
- Follow the signposted historical trail through the narrow streets and climb to the bell tower for a panoramic view of the entire vineyard landscape.
- The village is filled with charming inns where you can taste the famous Crottin de Chavignol, the perfect match for a glass of white wine.
- As for wines, the estates Henri Bourgeois, Alphonse Mellot, and Vacheron offer visits by appointment. With their expressive whites and structured reds, exceptional settings, and warm hospitality, chances are you’ll leave with a brand new favourite.
Day 4: Sancerre → Châtillon-sur-Loire (33 km – 5 h – 4 locks)
Time for the final leg of the outward journey, heading to the beautiful village of Châtillon-sur-Loire, whose surroundings hide a few surprises! You can also rent a boat from Châtillon-sur-Loire to explore another section of Burgundy’s waterways.
What to do along the way:
- Visit the old port, stop by the Maison de la Loire, or take a walk along a waymarked vineyard trail overlooking the river.
- And of course, a final wine stop: Coteaux du Giennois, a lesser-known appellation that you’ll find in cosy wine bars or local wine shops. Made by independent vignerons, these fresh, light wines are a lovely discovery to wrap up your journey with a unique twist.
Day 5: Châtillon-sur-Loire → Pouilly-sur-Loire (45 km – 5 h 30 min – 5 locks)
Today’s destination is one of the most prestigious names in white wine: Pouilly-Fumé, a must-stop on the Burgundy wine route.
What to do along the way:
- Belleville-sur-Loire is ideal for a lunch stop—either on land or with a picnic on board.
- Upon arriving in Pouilly-sur-Loire, visit the Pavillon du Milieu de Loire, an interactive space dedicated to the Loire’s biodiversity and its winegrowing culture. It’s the perfect place to understand the deep connection between the river and the vines.
- For your tasting, book a visit with renowned producers such as Jonathan Pabiot, Michel Redde, or Masson-Blondelet—local references whose crisp, mineral whites are often considered grands crus, praised by amateurs and professionals alike in glowing reviews.
Day 6: Pouilly-sur-Loire → Marseilles-lès-Aubigny (26 km – 5 h – 6 locks)
In the morning, head south for a peaceful final leg along the canal, through your last few locks in a picturesque rural setting.
What to do along the way:
- Watch the river’s wildlife drift past: herons, swans, dragonflies… a gentle, natural ballet.
- When it's time for a break, find a riverside picnic area along the Loire—a perfect setting for a relaxed countryside lunch.
- Once in Marseilles-lès-Aubigny, stroll through this charming village once bustling with river trade. You may even meet some retired winemakers still deeply attached to their land. The peaceful setting makes it ideal for river tourism and rest before your return journey.
Day 7: Marseilles-lès-Aubigny → Plagny (23 km – 3 h – 3 locks)
This is where your journey comes to an end. After one last peaceful night on board, it’s time to return the boat and head home with a head full of memories… and perhaps a few boxes of carefully packed wine stowed in the hold.
While this route immerses you in the wine regions of the Loire and Centre-Val de Loire, you can extend your journey to include other prestigious areas of Burgundy’s vineyards. For a tasting of the most iconic grands crus, you might consider a visit to emblematic wine villages like Beaune, Dijon, Chablis, Meursault, Pommard, Santenay, or Montrachet. There you’ll find historic domains such as Georges Montrachet or Corton, where the cellars tell the story of a thousand years of winemaking. These destinations aren’t on the river route, but they’re perfect for a weekend or short getaway to deepen your Burgundy wine experience.
Cultural events and festivals in Burgundy
The river journey between Plagny and Châtillon-sur-Loire offers a unique opportunity to combine the pleasure of navigation with the richness of Burgundy’s wine traditions. From May to September, the region comes alive with festivals, tastings, and encounters with local winemakers. Here’s a selection of events you won’t want to miss during your houseboat cruise on this part of the Burgundy wine route, in one of the most beautiful regions of France.
Festival du Mot – La Charité-sur-Loire (late May – early June)
- Location: Town center of La Charité-sur-Loire
- Admission: Free for most events. Some talks or workshops require a booking (free or a few euros).
This literary festival celebrates the power of words in all their forms: theater, concerts, public readings, street performances, kids’ workshops… and lively conversations over a glass of Coteaux Charitois. It’s a perfect opportunity to blend culture and terroir in a warm, relaxed atmosphere.
At the same time, several caves in town open their doors for unique tours, sometimes in places normally closed to the public, like historic merchant houses. There, you’ll meet passionate locals, gather reviews of the latest vintages, and perhaps even discover emerging wine estates from the region.
Sancerre wine festival – Sancerre (mid-August)
- Location: Château esplanade & town center of Sancerre
- Tasting pass (with glass): around €8 to €10
Over this festive weekend, the whole town of Sancerre buzzes with tastings and celebrations. Around fifteen local wine estates set up stands to showcase their signature cuvées. It’s one of the most iconic events in wine tourism in Centre-Loire.
Guided vineyard tours are offered throughout the day to help visitors better understand the local climates and the influence of the terroir on the grape varieties. The grands crus of Sancerre are honored in a joyful atmosphere, with live music, open-air dancing, and a fireworks show.
Pro tip: arrive in the morning to enjoy peaceful tastings. By late afternoon, the sun sets over the animated streets, and the festival takes on a magical glow. According to every visitor review, it’s an unforgettable experience.
European Heritage days – Along the whole route (3rd weekend of September)
- Where: Throughout France, including La Charité-sur-Loire, Briare, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Nevers, and Châtillon-sur-Loire
This weekend is ideal for discovering the cultural and winegrowing heritage of the region. Many sites that are usually closed to the public open their doors: old wine cellars, historic caves, private châteaux, and traditional heritage houses. Some local wineries even offer free guided tours with special tastings.
Don’t miss:
- A tour of the Nevers faience workshop, a symbol of local craftsmanship
- The Château de Tracy, near Pouilly, exceptionally open for the occasion with a walk through the park and a tasting of wines from the estate
- Guided visits at the Maison de Loire du Cher in Châtillon, perfect for understanding the deep connection between the Loire, its terroir, and the region’s wine culture
The Journées du Patrimoine offer a different way to experience the Burgundy wine route, by highlighting the stories behind historic places and the winemakers who bring them to life today.
When to go on a houseboat cruise in Burgundy?
Burgundy is beautiful year-round, but between May and late August, conditions are ideal: mild temperatures, long days, and smooth navigation. It’s also the perfect time to plan visits to wine estates, enjoy tastings to the fullest, and spend peaceful nights moored along the canal, rocked by the calm rhythm of the water.
This is also when the Climats of Burgundy, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, truly shine. Each vineyard parcel reveals its unique character, and winemakers are often more available to share their passion and their wines.
September and October mark the start of the grape harvest. The landscapes glow with golden colors, and a festive atmosphere fills the air. It’s one of the best times to experience the Burgundy wine route in a different light: you might even catch a glimpse of the harvest in action or join a tasting session right in the vineyard.
To help you plan your cruise on the Burgundy wine route, here’s a summary of the best times to go.
Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
| Max temperatures | 3°C | 4°C | 8°C | 10°C | 15°C | 18°C | 21°C | 21°C | 18°C | 14°C | 7°C | 5°C |
| Min temperatures | -1°C | 0°C | 2°C | 3°C | 7°C | 10°C | 13°C | 13°C | 11°C | 8°C | 3°C | 1°C |
Our practical tips
How to get to Plagny?
Plagny is located just a few kilometers south of Nevers, in the Nièvre department. The easiest way to reach the boat rental base is by train to Nevers station, which is well connected from Paris (about a 2-hour journey). Once there, taxis or ride-hailing services can take you to the Plagny marina in around ten minutes.
If you arrive a bit early, you might take the opportunity to explore Nevers’ city center. You can visit a winemaker’s house, a converted wine château, or a small urban cellar, sometimes tucked inside former historical buildings.
Some rental companies also offer transfers from the station, which can be booked in advance—particularly handy if you’re bringing a few boxes of wine or supplies for your first night on board.
Should you book your wine estate visits in advance?
It is highly recommended to book your visit ahead of time, especially during the high season (May to September) or on event weekends. Many estates only offer tastings by appointment, in order to ensure a personalized welcome and a deeper discovery of their crus.
For smaller producers, a simple phone call the day before is usually enough. Some will welcome you into a traditional winemaker’s house, while others will host you in a family-run cellar or even a former château converted into a tasting room. Local tourist offices can also help you plan your visits and connect you with trustworthy contacts for a truly authentic wine experience in the region.
How do you pass a lock?
Navigating the Canal Latéral à la Loire is accessible to everyone—even without a license. Most locks are manual or automated, and you’ll receive full training when you pick up your boat. Passing through a lock takes a bit of coordination at first, but it quickly becomes second nature.
Just slow down, follow the safety instructions, and listen to the lock keeper or the automated system. Make sure you have a helping hand on board to assist with mooring and maneuvering, especially on days when you pass through multiple locks.
Some cellars are located very close to locks and can make for a delightful stop—offering a tasting break between two stretches of navigation.
