“The Seychelles are one of those destinations you gaze at on postcards without really believing you'll ever set foot there. Discovering them for real, from a boat, surpassed everything I could have imagined.” It's with these words that Théo, one of our advisers at Filovent, tells us about the eleven days he spent aboard a Lagoon 620, on a cabin cruise in the heart of the archipelago, departing from Mahé. A dream destination, long dreamed of, which he was able to explore in the company of a guest, Mathilde, a Filovent adviser. For anyone wondering what a cabin cruise in the Seychelles is really like, here is an account that should shed some light, told by someone who knows the behind-the-scenes just as well as the most beautiful anchorages.
In this article, I take you in Théo's footsteps, from the pontoons of Eden Island in Mahé to the turquoise waters of La Digue, by way of the giant tortoises of Curieuse, the legendary islet of Saint-Pierre, the secret island of Silhouette and the barbecues on deserted beaches shared with a passionate Seychellois crew.
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Summary-e915b633-5d3f-43bd-bd5a-8ca164722607
A cabin cruise aboard a Lagoon 620
A large catamaran for sailing in a small group
It's on a Lagoon 620, one of those large cruising catamarans of nearly 19 metres found in the catamaran charter in the Seychelles, that Théo and Mathilde embark to visit the Seychelles. The boat offers 6 double cabins for a maximum of 12 passengers, accompanied by a two-person crew : a skipper and a hostess. That time, the catamaran was fully booked, with a lovely mix of French, Italian and Austrian travellers.
And yet, despite a full boat, space was never lacking. Théo, who was a little apprehensive about the idea of spending eleven days on a catamaran, came back completely won over. “I was dreading going round in circles on a catamaran for eleven days. In reality, the volume on board is such that you never feel cramped, and everyone always finds their own corner to withdraw to.” Interior saloon, sun loungers, netting at the bow : everyone could withdraw or rejoin the others as they pleased.
On board : comfort, air conditioning and wifi
For an eleven-day stay at sea, the comfort on board was a real pleasant surprise. Launched in 2018, the catamaran was in impeccable condition, almost like new. “A superb boat, remarkably comfortable and generously spacious. For its age, it was in truly impeccable condition.” Each cabin had its own private bathroom, and the boat was equipped with air conditioning and wifi, a real luxury for staying cool under the tropical climate of the Seychelles while keeping an eye on the world when you wanted to.
On the budget side, Théo also highlights a point that speaks to many travellers : with meals, activities and anchorages included, this type of cruise remains surprisingly affordable compared with an equivalent stay on land in an archipelago renowned for its luxury hotels.
A Seychellois crew that takes wonderful care of you
But what makes all the difference on this type of cruise is the crew. On board, a Seychellois skipper and hostess, who knew their archipelago inside out. “They knew the archipelago's every nook and cranny and adapted the itinerary to the weather. Everything was designed to make the experience perfect.” The Seychellois also struck Théo with their welcome. “The Seychellois are wonderfully kind, very open, and welcome travellers with sincere warmth.”
The hostess's cooking was one of the revelations of the trip. “The cooking was excellent, wonderfully varied, enhanced with remarkable sauces. You could sense real work behind every dish.” The highlight : a barbecue set up on a private beach, decorated table, feet in the sand, facing the lagoon. “It was like being in a film. Everything was prepared in advance, without the slightest logistics to handle on our part.”
A timeless interlude, completely disconnected
Beyond the boat and the crew, what Théo mainly takes away is that rare feeling of total disconnection. “The days end up resembling one another, and that's precisely what makes the trip so restful. No one is stressed any more, you simply let yourself be carried along.” No meals to plan, no decisions to make : just enjoying yourself. And come evening, the favourite ritual on board : lying on the netting, with no light pollution at all, to gaze at the stars. A full week and a half of letting yourself be rocked, with nothing else to manage but the pleasure of the moment.
An 11-day itinerary in the Seychelles departing from Mahé
The order of the stops can vary from one stay to another depending on the weather, with the skipper adapting the programme to offer the best conditions, but all the stops are on the agenda. Here is the sequence followed by Théo and his guest, Mathilde.
Boarding at Mahé (Eden Island marina)
Day 1 : Mahé (Eden Island) → Sainte-Anne Reserve
Day 2 : Sainte-Anne → Île Cocos → La Digue
Day 3 : La Digue
Day 4 : La Digue → Cousin → Praslin (Vallée de Mai) → Baie Sainte-Anne
Day 5 : Baie Sainte-Anne → Grande Sœur → Curieuse
Day 6 : Curieuse → Saint-Pierre Islet → Anse Volbert
Day 7 : Anse Volbert (Praslin) → Anse Major (Mahé)
Day 8 : Anse Major → Silhouette
Day 9 : Silhouette → Beau Vallon (Mahé)
Day 10 : Beau Vallon → Eden Island
Day 11 : Eden Island (disembarkation)
Disembarkation at Mahé (Eden Island marina)
Day 1 : Mahé → Sainte-Anne Reserve (boarding)
Boarding takes place in the late morning at the Eden Island marina, in Mahé, one of the most prestigious residential marinas in the world and the main departure point for a cruise in the Seychelles. Before check-in at 1 p.m., there's the chance to enjoy the pool of the Eden Bleu hotel. The catamaran then sets course for the Sainte-Anne marine reserve for a first anchorage. Théo and Mathilde get to know the boat, the crew and their fellow travellers, in an immediately relaxed atmosphere.
On the weather side, the timing was ideal : a cruise in the height of the dry season, under generous sunshine. “The water is so warm that there's no risk of cold-water shock. At times it would even come close to the limit of too warm.” A practical tip from Théo, with a UV index climbing to 11 : swim in a t-shirt so as not to get sunburnt.
Day 2 : Sainte-Anne → Île Cocos → La Digue
The day begins with a snorkelling session in the Sainte-Anne marine reserve, renowned for its superb seabeds. After lunch, course is set for Cocos Island, a cluster of large rocks with strange bands sculpted by the sea, where the snorkelling proves unforgettable, amid an abundance of fish and brightly coloured corals. The Lagoon then reaches the picturesque harbour of La Digue for the night.
Day 3 : La Digue by bike, a day of freedom
If only one day were to be remembered, it might well be this one. On La Digue, no cars are allowed : you get around by bike or by ox-drawn cart. Théo and the rest of the group hire bicycles and each set off on their own to explore the island at their own pace. “You cover the entire island by bike, with a real sense of freedom. You take your time, you chat with the locals, you stop in the coves as the mood takes you and you have fun in the waves.” A single day is enough to go all the way round, especially since the crew had prepared them a picnic. To prepare for this stop, our article dedicated to the island of La Digue details the must-sees, starting with the famous beach of Anse Source d'Argent.
Day 4 : La Digue → Cousin → Praslin and the Vallée de Mai
Heading for the island of Cousin, a nature reserve since 1968, home to many species of birds as well as giant tortoises. After lunch on board, the afternoon is devoted to Praslin and the Vallée de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The path weaves through the half-light created by the immense endemic palms that produce the famous coco de mer, also nicknamed the “ coco-fesses ”. A local curiosity you can even have stamped in your passport. Anchorage for the night at Baie Sainte-Anne.
Day 5 : Baie Sainte-Anne → Grande Sœur → Curieuse
Course is set for Grande Sœur, considered one of the most beautiful islands in the Seychelles. On the programme : water sports, swimming, relaxation and the famous beach barbecue, that “ like in the films ” moment that will remain one of Théo's finest memories. Anchorage at Curieuse or Anse Petite Cour for the night.
Day 6 : Curieuse → Saint-Pierre Islet → Anse Volbert
The morning is devoted to Curieuse in the Seychelles, located in the marine national park, which is home to more than a hundred giant tortoises roaming free. After lunch, the boat reaches the legendary islet of Saint-Pierre, that little cluster of round rocks crowned with palm trees, one of the most photographed images of the Seychelles. This is where, in Théo's opinion, the finest snorkelling spot of the cruise is found. “At Saint-Pierre, we came across sharks, turtles, manta rays and even eels. An absolutely striking spectacle.” Anchorage for the night at Anse Volbert or Anse Lazio.
Day 7 : Anse Volbert → Anse Major (Mahé)
Time for swimming, snorkelling and lazing on the beautiful beaches of Praslin, over towards Anse Volbert. One of the longest sails of the week then takes the catamaran all the way to Anse Major, on the island of Mahé, for a dinner ashore. But far from being a chore, the hours at sea were part of the pleasure. “In the end you sail rather little, and the boat is so stable that you barely feel the crossings.” No rolling, little wind : ideal conditions throughout the stay.
Day 8 : Anse Major → Silhouette
The day begins with water activities at Anse Major, a wild cove on the north-west coast of Mahé, accessible only by boat or on foot, where the colour of the water speaks for itself. After lunch, departure for the island of Silhouette and a night at anchor.
Day 9 : Silhouette → Beau Vallon
A stage reserved for the longest itineraries, Silhouette is the best-kept secret of the Seychelles. Around thirty kilometres north-west of Mahé, this granite island of 25 km² rises out of the Indian Ocean with its hills covered in tropical forest. Théo retains the image of a sanctuary : lush nature, deserted private beaches and a remarkably unspoiled island that can only be discovered by boat. The visit takes the form of a beautiful walk in the heart of the vegetation, before setting course for Beau Vallon, in Mahé, for dinner and a night at anchor.
Day 10 : Beau Vallon → Eden Island
A last full day, at Beau Vallon, an immense white-sand beach nestled in unspoiled nature. On the programme : relaxation, snorkelling, kayaking and swimming. After lunch, return to the Eden Island marina, one of the most prestigious in the world, with its bars, restaurants and boutiques. The last night is spent at the marina pontoon.
Day 11 : Eden Island, time to say goodbye
One last morning is enough to wrap up the stay, with an early-morning disembarkation, between 6 and 8 a.m., at the Eden Island marina. The moment of goodbyes, always a little bittersweet after such an intense cruise. For Théo, who had been apprehensive about eleven days at sea, it's a complete revelation and an immediate desire to come back and explore the archipelago even further, why not on a boat charter in the Seychelles.
A few unforgettable memories
- La Digue by bike : a whole day spent cycling round the island, stopping in the coves and playing in the waves, the crew's picnic in the basket. “A real sense of freedom : you take your time and discover the island from one end to the other.”
- Snorkelling at Saint-Pierre : sharks, manta rays, turtles and eels in the same place, in one of the finest seabeds in the Seychelles. “An encounter I'm not about to forget.”
- The giant tortoises of Curieuse : a hundred or so giants roaming free in the marine national park, an encounter like nowhere else.
- The barbecue on a private island : a table laid and decorated with feet in the sand, facing the lagoon. “It was like being in a film, with nothing to organise on our part.”
- The tropical rain : short, warm and torrential showers, barely fifteen minutes, under which you keep on swimming. “A warm rain that has its charm and is very much part of the experience.”
- The stars from the netting : lying on the catamaran's trampoline, with no light pollution at all, and looking up. The perfect distillation of the spirit of the trip.
Fancy living the same adventure?
Do you dream of a cruise in the Seychelles, among giant tortoises, granite beaches and coral seabeds? Our advisers, who know the archipelago from having sailed it themselves, build with you the itinerary that suits you. Discover the 11-day cabin cruise in the Seychelles taken by Théo, or ask directly for your quote for a cruise in the Seychelles.
Acknowledgements
A big thank-you to Théo and Mathilde for the time they devoted to this conversation and for the memories they agreed to share to illustrate this account !
