2-week sailing itinerary between the Kornati and Dalmatia departing from Biograd

After 2 years of postponing their usual vacation on the waters of the French Riviera, Croatia is what Olivier and his family chose for a 2-week cruise, in July 2025. Departing from Biograd, it was between the Kornati Islands and Northern Dalmatia that the family sailed: "It was the opportunity to go to a coast where there are many islands, many anchoring possibilities. That's what suits us best, anchoring in a cove where there's no one else and spending the night under the stars". 

On the program: waking up to the song of cicadas, discovering picturesque landscapes and observing dolphins.       

A cruise on a Bavaria 41

Olivier, his wife, and their 3 children chose a Bavaria 41 from 2003 for their boat hire in Croatia. With an overall length of 12.55 meters, its spacious deck and clear cockpit, the boat warmly welcomed the family during their 14-day trip. On board, 3 berths with double beds and 2 bathrooms for maximum space. However, Olivier specifies: "The boat was old. That didn't stop us from enjoying it and wanting to go back to Croatia anyway". Behind this choice, a mainly economic motivation that Olivier summarizes with humor: "We got what we paid for".

The choice of trip duration wasn't made randomly either. 2 weeks was for Olivier the guarantee of being able to explore as much as possible of the Croatian coast: "This year, we took 2 weeks whereas other years we had only taken one week. We have fewer constraints to reach the home port, and it allows us to be freer, to go further". Ideal for discovering the wide archipelago of the Kornati and the must-see islands of Dalmatia. Every day, the crew benefited from a favorable wind strong enough to push them on the water without trouble. Sailing time was quite variable, with navigation of 3 to 5 hours per day, or 8 to 9 hours sometimes.

14-day itinerary departing from Biograd

Day 1: Biograd → Otok Žižanj (6 nautical miles for 1 hour of sailing)

Olivier and his family's journey begins in Biograd, the "white city by the sea". On site, superb weather welcomes them to Croatia. Arriving at Marina Kornati, the family boards their Bavaria 41 and proceeds with their provisioning. Once settled in, Olivier takes the helm for a first navigation to the island of Žižanj, opposite the Croatian coast. 

This is where the family enjoys the sea air on the seaside promenade. As the sun begins to set, the family settles in a small seafood restaurant and dines while contemplating the authentic landscapes of Croatia.

Day 2: Otok Žižanj → Uvala Stupica (22 nautical miles for 3 hours and 30 minutes of sailing)

After a good night's sleep, Olivier and his family set sail: heading for the island of Žirje. After 4 hours of sailing, our travelers arrive on this island at the extreme east of the Kornati, and its majestic limestone cliffs. On the water, graceful dolphins are what Olivier's daughter spots, delighted. 

At Uvala Stupica, surrounded by deep blue water, the family enjoys the calm and serenity of the small wild cove protected from the Croatian wind, and notably the Bora. Not far away, the ruins of a Byzantine fortress 1500 years old stand on the island of Žirje. Once the day is over, it's at anchor that Olivier and his loved ones spend the night after a dinner aperitif on the boat.

Day 3: Uvala Stupica → Split (42 nautical miles for 7 hours of sailing)

On the third day, Olivier sets off for the longest navigation of his trip, because 40 nautical miles away, it's the renowned Split that welcomes them. "We sailed directly from Žirje to Split because we were meeting one of my daughters-in-law!". The city impresses the family, who quickly grasp its status as cultural and economic center of Dalmatia. 

After a lunch of fritules, a fried donut dish typical of Dalmatia, the family discovers the old town of Split and its 1700 years of history, then the palace of the ancient Roman emperor Diocletian, and its Saint Domnius cathedral. After contemplating the landscapes from the Riva waterfront promenade, Olivier and his loved ones opt for dinner in a konoba, the traditional Croatian restaurants with Mediterranean dishes.

Day 4: Split → Split 

It would have been a shame to stay only one day in Split and not enjoy all the wonders that the country's second most populated city has to offer. In the morning, it's in Marjan Park that the family goes for a walk. At the end of its 30-minute climb, this volcanic hill offers a superb landscape over Split and its bay. The family is amazed.

After lunch in the restaurant overlooking Marjan Park, the family opts for a cultural afternoon with a visit to the Metrosevic Gallery art museum and its works of Gothic and Byzantine inspiration. And to end the day, nothing better than strolling through the shopping streets of Split, searching for souvenirs or unusual objects, as the sun sets.

Day 5: Split → Rogačić (30 nautical miles for 5 hours of sailing)

In the morning, Olivier leaves the animation and life of Split to return to his peaceful coves, heading for the small village of Rogačić, quietly nestled on the island of Vis, one of the most beautiful moorings in Croatia. After 5 hours of sailing, he anchors his boat in this quiet bay protected from the wind. "The island of Vis is truly magnificent". Peacefully settled, the family listens to the song of the cicadas.

An hour's walk away is the majestic Fort George, a British building now converted into a wine bar where tourists can savor the delights of Croatian vineyards, and enjoy a grand viewpoint over the island's surroundings and the country's coast.

Only one watchword for this end of day: relaxation, well deserved after enjoying the energy of Split.

Day 6: Rogačić → Uvala Ruda (11 nautical miles for 2 hours of sailing)

After enjoying the north of Vis, it's now to the south face of the island that Olivier's family goes after a sleep-in. During the navigation, our travelers contemplate the schools of fish in the royal blue water so characteristic of Dalmatia. But arriving at Uvala Ruda, it's crystal clear turquoise water that welcomes them. 

A former fishing village, Uvala Ruda is a deserted cove, where Olivier finds himself alone with his family. The family spends the afternoon in the shade, near the bay's beach and its pebbles shining in the sun.

Day 7: Uvala Ruda → Vela Luka (37 nautical miles for 6 hours of sailing)

On the morning of the 7th day, Olivier prepares to get closer to the Croatian coast, discovering a new island of the Dalmatian archipelago: Šolta. After a long but pleasant navigation, carried by the wind, the family quenches their thirst for deserted coves and peaceful bays arriving at Vela Luka: " We were all alone in the cove, it was truly magnificent!".

Very different from the town of the same name located on the island of Korčula, Vela Luka is a little corner of paradise, just as quiet as Uvala Ruda. Evening peeks around the corner and Olivier contemplates the sunset.

Day 8: Vela Luka → Primošten (30 nautical miles for 5 hours of sailing)

Back to the crossroads between Kornati and Dalmatia ! After a gentle awakening at dawn, in the middle of nature, the family resumes their route to the Kornati Islands, and the next stop is the town of Primošten.

Primošten brings together everything that makes the charm of Croatia: cobbled streets, colorful roofs, fish taverns, and everywhere, breathtaking landscapes. The authentic charm of the old town, placed on a small island connected by a stone bridge to the mainland, delights the eyes of Olivier's family. Primošten is also a strategic choice in Olivier's itinerary, as it allows him to stock up until the end of their trip. Olivier and his family spend the night at the marina.

Day 9: Primošten → Šibenik (13 nautical miles for 2 hours of sailing)

After Primošten and its authentic charm, heading to Šibenik, one of Croatia's hidden jewels. Less known than Split, Šibenik is equally charming and presents its visitors with a new face of Croatian history. After the Byzantine and Roman influence of the 1st millennium, here it's the heritage of the Venetian presence that Olivier finds.

Šibenik is a jewel of medieval architecture. With its stone old town and its Gothic churches, Šibenik gives the impression of a return to the late Middle Ages. After visiting the city, the family strolls along the seaside, and ends their day in a friendly restaurant.

Day 10: Šibenik → Uvala Japnenišće (12 nautical miles for 2 hours of sailing)

Žirje, one of the first stops of the trip had pleased the family so much that they absolutely had to return. After crossing the Saint Anthony Channel, our vacationers reach the bay of Uvala Japnenišće, one of the smallest coves of their trip. Anchoring is easy there, and the destination is ideal to not sail too much after the long journeys of recent days.

Program for the day? Relaxation, brunch on the boat and relaxation to the sounds of nature.

Day 11: Uvala Japnenišće → Uvala Stupica Vela (5 nautical miles for 1 hour of sailing)

With the end of their trip approaching, it's the peacefulness of abandoned coves that the family wants to enjoy to the fullest. The decision is therefore quickly made when Olivier proposes to return to Uvala Stupica Vela, a charming little corner where the family had spent the night of the second day.

Back to the south face of Žirje, for only 1 hour of sailing. On site, the family is amazed as if it were the first time they came here. At anchor, everything is so quiet, and Olivier loves it. What could be better to enjoy the Croatian charm?

Day 12: Uvala Stupica Vela → Levrnaka (26 nautical miles for 4 hours and 30 minutes of sailing)

With the twelfth day, Olivier and his family end their trip with their best memory: the island of Levrnaka. Located near the island of Kornat, Levrnaka seems to have never been trodden by human foot. Completely uninhabited, Levrnaka surprises Olivier with its astonishing rock formations, almost lunar. Nature is queen there, and the island's fauna and flora is diverse.

But what our travelers prefer is the cove where they settled, and where time seems to stop, as if to make this end of trip last a little longer.

Day 13: Levrnaka → Biograd (24 nautical miles for 4 hours of sailing)

It's the last day! The family gets up around 8 o'clock to be at noon in Biograd. On the return, they pass off Katina, then under the bridge of Ždrelac before returning the boat, arrived at their starting point. 

But barely arrived, only one desire: to leave again. "We left saying to ourselves, but what are we going to do when we get back? We need to find a boat to come back as soon as possible". One thing is certain, Croatia still hides wonders that Olivier and his loved ones will continue to discover next year.

Highlights and memorable memories

Sailing alongside dolphins

A magical moment! Observable in summer and spring sometimes, these graceful marine creatures particularly present in Croatia marked the spirits of Olivier and his loved ones. "We saw them 3 times, and my daughter who loves dolphins really enjoyed it"

The Milky Way shining with a thousand lights in the evenings at anchor

Anchoring in a small calm cove, in the middle of nature, looking up at the sky and seeing the constellations light up, isn't that one of the most beautiful spectacles one can witness? Olivier loved, every evening before going to bed, contemplating the sky and the stars :"The starry nights were truly splendid, the Milky Way that we could see from our boat…"

The island of Levrnaka

The highlight of the show. Levrnaka was for Olivier and his family one of the most beautiful anchorages along with the one on the island of Šolta. The combination between virgin nature and the picturesque charm of Croatian landscapes particularly seduced the family who highly recommend anchoring in the island's bay.

Olivier's advice

• Determine in advance where to anchor ("There are anchorages where you have to pay, and it's not always indicated") 
• Plan for cash ("When you don't have cash, it can be really complicated")
• Watch out for the age of the boat ! (Olivier suffered from some technical problems on board due to the age of the boat)

Acknowledgments

I would like to warmly thank Olivier, for the time he devoted to our phone conversation as well as for sending some of his travel photos!