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A week sailing in the Aeolian Islands: a cruise with friends in Sicily

Seven friends, a sailboat, and the Aeolian Islands as their playground : the perfect ingredients for a week of sailing off the coast of Sicily. Departing from Portorosa, the crew came together around a shared goal: to island-hop, to escape, to reconnect. Between volcanic discoveries, lively evenings, and wild anchorages, this cruise offered everyone a timeless escape. Follow the itinerary as told by Franklin and dive into the world of sailing.

A week aboard a Dufour 430 GL

The boat that hosted this Sicilian adventure was none other than a 2019 Dufour 430 GL, spacious and easy to handle. Rented by Gais, it was perfect for a cruise with friends, offering 4 comfortable cabins and easy circulation on board. "For 7 people, it’s ideal. With 10, honestly, we wouldn’t recommend it, it would be too cramped."location de voilier dans les îles Eoliennes,Take a closer look at this model. At the helm, Alix and Franklin took turns throughout the week. While one stayed on course, the other relaxed, and vice versa. This arrangement allowed everyone to find their own rhythm, balancing downtime at anchor, snorkeling, and handling maneuvers during departures.

Photos of the Dufour 430 GL from various angles at sea, and a lunch on board
Dufour 430 GL (Source : Franklin)

The first to arrive set foot in Sicily from Paris, followed by others from Lyon, and finally the last group from Barcelona."From Lyon, we found flights for under €100, definitely something to keep in mind for those looking to travel on a budget." A rental car awaits them at Palermo airport, and the drive to Portorosa takes about 2.5 hours.

The marina of Portorosa is vast, convenient, and well-equipped: supermarkets, restaurants, parking — everything you need is there. "It’s really a base where you can get everything done before setting off, even have your groceries delivered directly to the boat. But well, we had the car, so Lidl and that’s it!"

It’s also possible to take a location de bateau à Palerme, which is initially easier when you land there. 

At midnight, they find the Dufour 430 GL ready to welcome them."Gais had left the boat unlocked, super easy. Even at that hour, we were able to settle in without any stress, which was really appreciated."

Important tip regarding the car: Debit card, not credit card, required."Sinon tu payes toutes les assurances et ça pique."

Photo montage of 5 shots: a selfie of two girls, a marina under a blue sky with sailboats docked, two Méharis, one red and one yellow, two men heading toward the coast in a dinghy, and a sunset at sea from the boat.
Début de la Dolce Vita (Source : Franklin)

7-day itinerary departing from Portorosa

Boarding in Portorosa

Day 1: Portorosa → Vulcano (Grotta del Cavallo)

Day 2: Vulcano → Lipari (Havana Beach) → Panarea (Cala Junco) → Spiaggia Zimmari

Day 3: Spiaggia Zimmari → Lisca Bianca → Stromboli

Day 4: Stromboli → Salina (Rinella)

Day 5: Salina (Rinella) → Pollara Beach → FiliCudi → Vulcano

Day 6: Vulcano → Portorosa

Disembarkation in Portorosa

6-day itinerary around the Aeolian Islands, marked by all stopovers and key waypoints
6-day itinerary around the Aeolian Islands (Source : Stepmap)

Day 1: Portorosa → Vulcano (Grotta del Cavallo)

Morning check-in at 9 a.m. with the charter company, a quick boat inspection, weather briefing: everything’s good to raise the anchor. In the early afternoon, they leave Portorosa for their very first stop in the îles Eoliennes : Vulcano, an island with a raw, volcanic, almost lunar look.

The wind is light, the sea is calm, the perfect conditions to get familiar with the sailboat. By the end of the day, they reach the Grotta del Cavallo on the western side of the island. "The spot was lovely, very natural. We arrived a bit late, alone at anchor. But it was quite rolly!"

Sunset at sea with another sailboat in the distance, silhouetted in the twilight, and a dinghy heading toward the sailboat.
Sun setting over the Tyrrhenian Sea (Source : Franklin)

Day 2: Vulcano → Lipari (Havana Beach) → Panarea (Cala Junco) → Spiaggia Zimmari

After a slow morning, the boat sets course for Lipari. The group decides to sail along the island and stop at Havana Beach for lunch. A former quarry turned into a paradise cove, the spot offers turquoise water and a sandy seabed. "For a picnic on the boat, it was perfect. And with a west wind, you can even spend the night there."

But the afternoon brings a generous wind: "We hoisted the sails, and that was pure bliss. Flat sea, beam reach, we sailed straight to Panarea." This passage becomes one of the highlights of the trip, a true sense of speed and freedom at the helm.

Upon arrival, they stop at Cala Junco, a small bay surrounded by cliffs. Too much swell to spend the night there, so they head to Spiaggia Zimmari, further north, for a peaceful anchorage.

Photo montage of landscapes with sailboats in the foreground, clear turquoise water, and girls sunbathing.
Peaceful sailing (Source : Franklin)

Day 3: Spiaggia Zimmari → Lisca Bianca → Stromboli

At sunrise, the lockers are almost empty of the essentials: no more prosecco. "We couldn’t make Spritz anymore… in Italy, that’s the ultimate tragedy!" A quick run ashore to restock on water and bubbles.

Then, they set course for Lisca Bianca, nestled between two volcanic islands. There, a spectacular dive: "You dive in and see bubbles rising from the sand — it’s the volcano beneath your fins. Totally surreal." One of the most unforgettable experiences of the cruise.

At midday, a stop on the wild island of Basiluzzo, then onward to Stromboli, the most anticipated stop of the journey.

At 5 p.m., they begin a 5-hour guided hike to the summit of the volcano (a guide is required to go beyond 400m, approx. €30/person). They reach the viewpoint at the perfect moment. "Stromboli erupted right at sunset. An orange blast against a pink sky. We were absolutely blown away."

A quick descent, then off to a pizzeria for a well-deserved evening. They sleep on a mooring buoy (€140/night), without a reservation but with a bit of luck. Best to avoid Tuesdays and Wednesdays: "Everyone follows the same itinerary, so it’s often crowded. We got lucky."

The mooring buoy comes with a shuttle service from 8 a.m. to midnight, and the boats are monitored : reassuring after a long day.

A group wearing pink helmets at the base of the volcano, then at the summit with a wide view over the sea, the sun setting on the horizon, and the volcano erupting in the background.
Ascent of Stromboli volcano (Source : Franklin)

Day 4: Stromboli → Salina (Rinella)

Upon waking, coffee with their feet in the water. A local team prepares them cappuccinos and tiramisù. "Honestly, for less than €10 each, we were treated like royalty." Shortly after, the girls go for a walk while the boys chat at the end of a fishing rod — and miraculously manage to catch a triggerfish. Overjoyed, they capture the moment!

Photo montage of several group shots: in front of a restaurant with the shop owner, gathered around the breakfast table, and holding up the triggerfish they caught.
Morning in Stromboli (Source : Franklin)

They then sail around an imposing, solitary rock off the coast of Stromboli, iconic and striking, before setting course for Salina.

Anchoring in the south, near Rinella. A sandy plateau at 14 meters makes for a peaceful anchorage. "At 8 meters, there are rocks, better to avoid. At 14, it’s perfect, and best of all… no one around. Pure bliss."

In the evening, the party is in full swing on board. Cocktails, music, and stars set the mood. "That was THE night of the trip." That night, a feeling of pure holiday joy floats across the deck. The love between friends, the raw beauty of the setting, the endless sea : everything comes together. Italy is no myth: it inspires love, not just for couples, and it knows how to spark love where you least expect it.

Several group and couple photos on the boat, out at sea, with a sunset in the background.
An evening under the sign of love (Source : Franklin)

Day 5: Salina (Rinella) → Pollara Beach → FiliCudi → Vulcano

They then set off on a long 10-hour sail, including 8 hours under sail, to return to Vulcano. The group first heads toward Pollara Beach on the northwest coast. The scenery is rugged, wild, and silent. Beneath the surface, a natural arch captivates everyone. "We swam under it one by one, in single file. A true explorer’s adventure."

At noon, they have lunch at La Trattoria Dai Maniàci, accessible by boat. "They have a small dock. We were lucky it was free. Main course, dessert, a bottle of wine, and an incredible view : €25 per person. Unforgettable."

In the late afternoon, they head toward Filicudi, a remote and rugged island. They sail around a gigantic rocky peak rising from the sea. "That rock came out of nowhere. We all went silent, it was just too beautiful." A peaceful anchorage in an almost sacred silence. They finally reach Vulcano. "It was a special kind of day. Just the wind, the waves, and us."

Day 6 : Vulcano → Portorosa

The boat is officially handed back at 8 a.m., but everything is already set. The group hops back in the car and heads to Cefalù for a final beachfront breakfast and a sunny lunch. In the afternoon, they drive to Palermo, a vibrant and colorful city. “We wandered without a plan. It’s a city that takes you by the hand. A beautiful ending.”

A group of friends gathered around a table at the restaurant, and a man posing in front of the boat at the restaurant’s dock.
Royal welcome at the restaurant (Source : Franklin)

Highlights

Stromboli volcano erupting at sunset

Climbing the dark slopes of Stromboli for hours, then stopping, silent, facing the horizon. At the exact moment the sun disappears, the volcano awakens: a glowing burst slices through the pink sky. That contrast of fire and softness, that vibration in the air… no one says a word, but everyone feels it. A suspended, unforgettable, almost unreal moment.

Snorkeling among the sulfur bubbles

Between two volcanic islets, they slipped into the water, masks firmly in place. Beneath the surface, clouds of bubbles rose from the seabed, as if the island were breathing slowly. Swimming above an active volcano, surrounded by silence, sparked a raw sense of wonder. A sensory experience on the edge of a dream.

fSeabed with turquoise water and sulfur bubbles rising from the ocean floor
Sulfur bubbles (Source : canva)

Meals by the sea, including the legendary lunch in Vulcano

Hard to beat that Friday lunch in Vulcano: a dock, a seaside table, a fresh fish dish, homemade tiramisu, and a chilled bottle of white wine. All for €25 per person, in a warm and laid-back atmosphere. La dolce vita, sailboat and sandals edition.

The isolated rock of Filicudi, mystical and imposing

In a sea as smooth as glass, a shape emerges: a solitary rocky spur rising between sky and sea, like a forgotten sentinel. Not a word is spoken on the boat. The silence speaks for everyone. It’s not just a landscape : it’s a visual, almost spiritual shock.

Impressive rock rising from the sea in the middle of nowhere
Salina (Source : Franklin)

Acknowledgements

I want to thank Franklin for taking the time to share his experience with me, as well as for sharing his beautiful photos that allow us to relive some of the highlights of this amazing cruise.

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